From Zanzibar to Cape Town by Public Transport

In mid-July 2025, I decided to embark on a 6-week adventure from Zanzibar/Dar es Salaam to Cape Town by public transport. My reasons for taking this trip were burnout – I had finished my PhD in 2024 without any real vacation that year and had gone straight into short-term consulting and job searching – and my frustration with the inhumane job market this year, particularly in the US and international institutions. I had also been conceiving this trip for a while, and felt like it was the right time to just do it. My original inspiration had been the Rovos Rail itinerary shown below.

Rovos Rail Dar Es Salaam to Cape Town Itinerary - My Inspiration

Specifically, Lernidee produced a beautiful 42-minute commercial about this trip which I had encountered on YouTube a while ago. I was immediately fascinated by the fact that there was a private train going all this way through five countries in Southern Africa. The tracks, it turns out, are due to Cecil Rhodes and his ambition to build a railway from Cape Town to Cairo, and to the Tanzania–Zambia Railway (TAZARA), built from 1970 to 1975 by the governments of Tanzania, Zambia, and China (under Mao) to eliminate landlocked Zambia’s economic dependence on Rhodesia and (Apartheid) South Africa by facilitating the export of Zambian copper through the port in Dar Es Salaam.

It is an itinerary rich in history and natural beauty, and also very easy to travel as a German citizen – I just needed a visa for Tanzania, all other countries are visa free except for Zimbabwe where a Visa can be picked up at the Border for $30. Of course, I would have loved to take the Rovos Train, but at $15,000 for a 16-day adventure it is quite expensive. I also wanted to take more time, and didn’t really like the idea of traveling through Africa in colonial luxury. I resolved that if the tracks are there, it must also be possible to take other trains or, if necessary, busses.

So I searched for flights, and found that flying directly to Zanzibar with Condor was my cheapest option. I had been on the Island before over newyear 2012/13 – being based in Rwanda as a volunteer – but I thought maybe a lot has changed since then, and I knew it is a great place to relax for a few days before starting the big trip. I also had some local connections in the Statistical Office through an ODI Fellow, as well as to the newly founded Africa Urban Lab – An emerging research Lab linked with the African School of Economics which also aims to establish a Zanzibar campus. So I flew there on the 21st of July 2025 and booked a hotel in Stone Town for four days.

Zanzibar and Dar Es Salaam – Slave Trade, Beaches, Islands, Forests

Once the center of the East African slave and spice trades, Zanzibar was ruled by Arab sultans and later became a British protectorate. Its rich cultural heritage reflects centuries of African, Arab, Persian, and European influences. Stone Town is the historic heart of Zanzibar City – a labyrinth of narrow alleys, bustling bazaars, and intricately carved wooden doors. Its UNESCO World Heritage status highlights its unique blend of architectural styles and vibrant street life. A particular highlight to me is the fresh sugarcane juice, which is not easily found elsewhere in Africa. Below you can see me consuming it first alone, and then with Ahmad, a local statistician, and his wife.

Stone Town

The historic Old Fort was originally built by the Portuguese in the 17th century and later re-built by the Omanis in the 18th century. It was used as a garrison and prison in the 19th century, and as a terminal of the Zanzibar railways 1905-28. I was also told incoming slaves were gathered on the floor there before being brought to the market.

Old Fort in Stone Town, Zanzibar

In the evenings, Stone Town Beach comes alive with locals and visitors alike. One can enjoy the tranquil scenery, see traditional dhow boats with triangular sails gliding into the sunset, but also watch some talented football players and the Zanzibar Flippers – a group of local acrobats demonstrating spectacular moves using old tires as trampolines.

Stone Town Beach, Zanzibar

A well known excursion from Stone Town is visiting Changuu (Prison Island) by boat – 5.6 km (3.5 mi) northwest of Stone Town. The island was uninhabited until the 1860s when the first Sultan of Zanzibar, Majid bin Said, gave it to two Arabs who used it as a prison for rebellious slaves prior to shipping them abroad or selling them at the slave market in Stone Town. More recently, the island has become a government-owned tourist resort and houses a collection of endangered Aldabra giant tortoises – a gift from the British governor of the Seychelles in 1919.

Curiously, I shared the boat ride from Stone Town with a group of Indian Catholic Priests from all over the country (some coming from as far as Bukoba at Lake Victoria) who had gathered in Zanzibar for an annual meetup.

Prison Island, Zanzibar

Another well-known adventure is Safari Blue – a full-day boat and snorkeling trip exploring the crystal-clear waters, sandbanks, and small islands southwest of Stone Town. The excursion includes opportunities for dolphin spotting, swimming, and enjoying a seafood barbecue on a remote island. Taking the budget option, I ended up in a crammed boat with lots of Africans – and befriended a Tanzanian family which took me out for some drinks in Stone Town afterwards. I also met my holy brothers from Prison Island again on a sandbank – the world is small over here.

Safari Blue, Zanzibar

Approximately in the middle of the island is Jozani Forest, the largest remaining indigenous forest on Zanzibar. It is a biodiversity hotspot and home to the rare and endemic Zanzibar Red Colobus Monkeys. Right next to it is an extended mangrove forest – with at least three different types of mangroves.

Jozani Forest, Zanzibar

Traveling further to the east coast, the island’s many beaches are also renowned for their powdery white sand and turquoise waters, offering a tranquil escape from the city. The coastline is dotted with palm trees, villages, and resorts. Paje is a lively beach village famous for its kite surfing scene and relaxed atmosphere, while nearby Michamvi offers a quieter, more secluded vibe. The Rock Restaurant is a popular spot for fresh seafood and local dishes, and Kae Funk Sunset Beach is known for its stunning sunsets, live music, and laid-back beach bar ambiance.

Paje and Michamvi, Zanzibar

From Zanzibar to Dar Es Salaam it takes about 1.5 hours with the fast ferries, which are the cheapest way to travel, but dashing through big ocean waves at high speeds may induce sea-sickness. Approaching Dar, one passes by the Kivukoni Fish Market where local fishermen bring in fresh catches and residents come to buy, cook, and sell.

Kivukoni Fish Market, Dar Es Salaam

A bit further on the right side, one passes by the Azania Front Lutheran Church. It was built by the German missionaries in 1898, in the Bavarian style of the time, with a red-tiled roof, tiled canopies over the windows and bright white walls. I stayed in a hostel right next to it (Luther House Hostel) and had the pleasure to meet the accountant of the Church who took me on an exclusive tour including the church tower – from which I enjoyed scenic views of both the city and the port. The port overall seemed very busy, with many ships waiting to enter the harbour.

Azania Front Lutheran Church, Dar Es Salaam

Other things to do in Dar is to visit the National Museum and the Botanical Garden, both close to the church, but there is not a lot to see and also not much historical storyline. The only two exhibits I photographed were the countries first airplane and a car driven by Nyerere. Next to the museum is a memorial of the 1988 US Embassy bombings, where al-Qaeda suicide bombers simultaneously detonated trucks loaded with TNT before the US Embassies in Dar Es Salaam and Nairobi, killing 213 in Nairobi and 11 in Dar. There are also several beaches, but none competitive with Zanzibar in the immediate vicinity of the city. Yet, Bravo Coco Beach is a nice place to hang out, and I was fortunate to meet Nasra, a Somali women who had lived in Europe for almost two decades but had recently returned to Dar to start a luxury hair care chain. Her Tanzanian coworkers joined later, and we had excellent conversations about Africa and the future – its encouraging to see that, amidst rising global uncertainty, some people are returning to build this continent. I was also very grateful to meet my aunt and her husband in Dar, who were at the end of an extended vacation and had just taken the TAZARA train from Mbeya. Together we visited Kariakoo Market – the largest market in Dar. This indoor/outdoor market spills into several city blocks, and buzzes day and night.

National Museum, Coco Beach, and Kariakoo Market in Dar Es Salaam

Lastly, I visited the World Bank office in Dar and had engaging chats with two staff members working on geospatial analytics and digital infrastructure development in Southern Africa – work that I had started to engage in as a consultant. When I told one of them I was about to take the train south he just replied: “That train takes forever”.

Dar to Mbeya with the TAZARA – A Scenic Adventure at Leasurely Pace

Having spent a relaxing yet eventful 8 days in Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam, I was finally ready, on the 29th of July, to embark on my big journey towards Cape Town. The first stage was a scenic overnight train journey with the TAZARA train to Mbeya, the largest city in southern Tanzania situated only ~100km from the border to Zambia. As mentioned in the introduction, this train was built from 1970 to 1975 by the governments of Tanzania, Zambia, and China (under Mao) to eliminate landlocked Zambia’s economic dependence on Rhodesia and (Apartheid) South Africa by facilitating the export of Zambian copper through the port in Dar es Salaam.

The regular travel time for the ~850km journey was 24 hours – but we ended up taking 32. I reserved a first-class coach, which I shared with Alex, an American from California. It is a lying coach with some blankets provided and a table – dating, it seemed, from 1975 and had seen a lot of train journeys. Thus, not much is left from the original comfort and cleanliness, but it is still very acceptable. The main source of discomfort with the train are the tracks, which are uneven in some places, and also have gaps between adjacent segments to accommodate the extreme heat in summer which lets the steel expand. These gaps, traversed at a speed of only 30-50km/h make for a constant “du dum, du dum” sound throughout most of the trip. The food served 3 times a day is edible but not great. Yet, I believe the breathtaking scenery makes it totally worthwhile to choose this mode of transport. See for yourself:

From Dar Es Salaam to Mbeya with the TAZARA Train

In Mbeya five of us from the first-class coach, that is, Alex from Palo Alto, Ana from Cape Town, a French lady with her daughter, and me, ended up in the Peace of Mind Hotel. It seems like the place to be in Mbeya – my aunt in Dar had told me about it and connected me with Henry, a local guide based at the hotel. Given the happy coincidence of our extended company, we hired Henry and a car and went on a hike to Lake Ngozi, the second largest crater lake in Africa, with a surface area of 3.1km2. The lake is located at an altitude of 2622m, most of which can be ascended by car, but the last ~300m need to be hiked on a path of 1.7km length through a lush highland jungle.

Ngozi Crater Lake, Mbeya

The next day, Alex and Ana continued toward Malawi, and I took a private tour with Henry to a view point on the Great Rift Valley close to the Mbeya – which itself lies within the valley. The day was a bit hazy so our sight was not perfect, but the pictures and footage still give an impression of the extent of it.

Great Rift Valley, Mbeya

Mbeya to Lusaka – History of Zambia and Commercial Fare

Right after the Rift Valley trip, I departed for the Zambia Border at Tunduma with a small bus. There had been an unexpected 30k fee at the Rift Valley view point which lowered my cash to 8k Tanzanian Shilling or $3.2 USD. I didn’t want to get Tanzanian cash again before going to Zambia, but was told it would suffice to get me to Zambia.

And surprisingly it did – I spent 3k on a boda (motorcycle taxi) to the Mbeya bus station, 4k to go with the small bus to the central bus station at Tunduma about 100km away, and then 1k to go from there to the Zambia border with a Matatu taxi. In comparison, the trip to the view point with Henry by private car had cost me 100k ($40), so this was a solemn reminder that in Africa, many things are possible on almost any budget.

In Tunduma, I crossed the border and wanted to check into a Hotel I had been told is on the Zambian side, but I soon realized that it was in Tanzania. However, I was fortunate to meet Lole, a Zambian working at the border/bus station on Nakonde – the name of the town on the Zambian side. He was very friendly and showed me to a local Hotel which was not even on Google Maps. In general, there is not much in Nakonde, so I was grateful for this encounter. Later that evening I invited him for beer and he told me some things about the town and the one stop border post. According to him, it takes only 2 hours for a typical truck to pass the border, which would be very good in African comparison where the median time spent crossing a border (including this one) is one week according to 2020 Doing Business Survey data. This highlights the need for more up to date information on some of these borders – ideally via digital information systems as suggested by this SSATP working paper.

From Mbeya to Lusaka

From Nakonde I then took a big South African tourbus to Lusaka – a ~1000km 16h journey. Originally, I had of course hoped to continue with the TAZARA train directly from Mbeya, but it turns out, due to maintenance issues, the train is currently only operating between Dar and Mbeya. So I had to take the tour Bus, which, beholding that it took me 32 hours to drive 850km from Dar to Mbeya, was a welcome rotation.

What was less welcoming was my experience trying to get on the Bus. I had agreed with Lole to meet at the Bus station in Nakonde in the morning after spending the night in the Hotel and he would guide me to the right bus. But, when I texted him in the morning there was no response – due to network issues as we later found out – and I set off for the station on my own. As I walked into the station compound, it turned out there were 3 or 4 busses of different companies and sizes going to Lusaka, and I immediately had 4 conductors taking my arm to guide me to their bus. That obviously didn’t work out, and they started shouting at me and at each other and to pull me uncomfortably hard. Others joined around them, so I became a spectacle in the bus station – a tall white man being dragged around by competing conductors while trying to hold on to his luggage. In the end I also got a bit scared and started shouting at them as well. Using all my strength I was able to free myself and set off back to the Hotel again. On the way there, I bumped into Lole who had wanted to pick me. We returned to the station, avoiding the crowd, and he arranged for me a ticket with the South African company.

I had, at this point, been to 14 countries in Africa already, but I have not yet had such a bus station experience. When I returned to Germany in September and told my Aunt about it – who had also been to Zambia – she told me about a very similar experience on the bus station in Lusaka. So beware of Zambian bus stations. Overall, I was grateful to have met Lole in Nakonde – without him it would have been difficult to find accommodation and get on the bus.

I spent 3 days in Lusaka, visiting the excellent National Museum and learning about early independent Zambia in the 60’s and 70’s under president Kenneth Kaunda – a pan-African socialist independence leader and a founding father of the Organization of African Unity which would later become the African Union. Notably, he also maintained good ties with the West and temporarily hosted and supported a bunch of other independence leaders from the region – such as Sam Nujoma from Namibia and Robert Mugabe from, at the time, Southern Rhodesia.

I also visited a local market with two french travelers, Pierre and Martin, whom I met at Natwange Backpackers. Martin was a veterinarian doing field missions in the countryside, and Pierre was on a business trip from Nairobi. They wanted to taste some caterpillars – a local speciality – but I searched for and was able to acquire a pair of excellent hand-made leather shoes for ~$50. Truthfully, I had not bought any good leather shoes since 2021, where I had stocked several pairs of second-hand shoes from Ugandan Markets which I was still wearing down. It was high time to get a fresh pair for special occasions, and so I was very happy about this find – enabling me to both support local manufacturing and continue my tradition of African shoes.

Also during my presence in Lusaka, the Agricultural and Commercial Show took place. Organized annually by the Agricultural & Commercial Cooperative Society of Zambia (ACSZ), it is Zambia’s flagship exhibition, held each year at the Lusaka Showgrounds since its establishment in 1919. Spanning several days, the event draws tens of thousands of attendees, along with hundreds of local and international exhibitors, turning Lusaka into a vibrant hub for agricultural innovation, trade, and networking. Its purpose is to showcase advancements in agriculture, commerce, and industry, foster business partnerships, boost investment, and celebrate Zambian culture, making it a cornerstone of national economic and social development. I was fortunate to accompany Rolf Richard from Norway to the show who also stayed at Natwange Lodge – a senior agricultural expert with engagements in Zambia for almost 20 years. In the end, however, it were the music and zulu dances, but also the TAZARA stand, that caught my attention. I learned there, that just in 2024, an agreement with Xi Jinping had been signed by both countries to renew the TAZARA, upgrading it to standard gauge to allow faster travel speeds and easier maintenance.

Lusaka – National Museum & Agricultural and Commercial Show

From Lusaka I wanted to continue by train to Livingstone. There is a passenger service along this route operated by Zambia Railways, but the train only departs once a week on Saturday morning, and I had arrived in Lusaka on Saturday and wanted to leave on Tuesday. Thus, I was compelled to again take a bus, which at ~8 hours was also faster than the purported 18 hours train journey. To avoid any further hassle at the bus station in Lusaka, I ordered the taxi driver that had taken me and the French guys around town earlier to pick up a ticket for me and drop me off directly at the bus. That worked very well, and I arrived safely in Livingstone on Tuesday the 5th of August in the evening. Backpackers lodges were unfortunately full, thus my local driver that I met at the bus station dropped me off at Chapa Classic Lodge, which offered great comfort at affordable rates, a 10-minute walk from the center of town.

Livingstone and Victoria Falls – In the Footsteps of the Great Explorer

The first thing I did in Livingstone was, of course, to visit the Livingstone Museum in honor of the great explorer and namegiver of the town. David Livingstone was a Scottish missionary, explorer, and physician whose expeditions through Africa in the 19th century left a lasting legacy. Driven by a blend of evangelical zeal and a desire to map uncharted regions, Livingstone ventured deep into the African interior at a time when much of the continent remained unknown to Europeans. His travels were not only groundbreaking in terms of exploration but also influential in raising awareness about the horrors of the transatlantic slave trade, which he condemned in his writings and public lectures.

One of Livingstone’s most iconic moments came in 1855 when he became the first European to witness the majestic Mosi-oa-Tunya waterfall on the Zambezi River. Struck by its grandeur, he renamed it “Victoria Falls” in honor of Queen Victoria. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage site stands as one of the most awe-inspiring natural wonders in the world. Just across the Zambian side of the falls lies the town of Livingstone, named in his honor. Once the capital of Northern Rhodesia, it now serves as a vibrant hub for tourists exploring the falls and the surrounding region.

The Livingstone Museum houses a significant collection of his personal belongings, letters, and maps, painting a vivid picture of his journeys and interactions with local communities.

Dr. David Livingstone – Livingstone Museum in Livingstone, Zambia

From the museum I went for an initial exploration of the falls and the Zambezi River, by visiting the Victoria Falls Bridge connecting Zambia and Zimbabwe next to the falls. This masterpiece of British engineering was completed in 1905 and was originally part of Cecil Rhodes’ ambitious plan to build a Cape-to-Cairo railway. Suspended 128 meters above the gorge, the bridge offers spectacular views of the falls and the Batoka Gorge below, and today it serves not only as a vital transport link but also as a popular spot for thrill-seekers — home to one of the world’s most famous bungee jumps. Since the bridge denotes an international border, with customs and a fair number of trucks queueing, I also had some interesting conversations with my local guide about the ease/means of transit. In the afternoon, I embarked on a scenic sunset cruise on the upper part of the Zambezi River above the falls.

Victoria Falls Bridge and Zambezi River Sunset Cruise

The next day then I booked a full-day tour to see the Victoria Falls from both sides. They are unfortunately also split between the two countries, with Zimbabwe possessing about 2/3 of the falls and Zambia the remaining 1/3. Thus, logistics are a bit complicated. A guided tour with Cuckoo Safaris is bookable with pickup in both Livingstone and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. The tour starts in Zimbabwe, so coming from Livingstone I had to get a visa for $30 and cross the border, pay $50 for the park entrance there, and see the Zimbabwean falls in a guided 3 hour tour with a Zimbabwean guide. Afterwards, cross the border again (invalidating the visa), pay another $30 park fee, and take a 2 hour tour with a Zambian guide. One can, of course, just see the falls from one side with less hassle, or book a helicopter trip from either side to fly over them, but to me, seeing them close up in full width was rewarding enough. As part of our tour group, I met Ruby, a teacher from London shown in the picture whom I enjoyed conversing with.

Referring to the falls, some locals speak of “The Smoke That Thunders” – a fitting analogy for this truly captivating and humbling site, where on average 1,100 m³ of water per second plunge 107 meters into a deep gorge stretching over a width of 1,737 meters. From a distance, the immense spray rises so high it resembles smoke from a massive wildfire. Geologically, the falls are the result of millions of years of erosion through basalt rock, creating a dramatic series of zig-zagging gorges carved by the Zambezi River — a dynamic landscape that continues to evolve. This ongoing geological activity, combined with the falls’ sheer scale and natural beauty, is part of the reason why they are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Victoria Falls from Zimbabwe to Zambia – with Cuckoo Safaris

The following day I also explored the gorge below the falls by means of a whitewater rafting expedition with Maano Adventures, which took us 14km down the river through ~20 rapids. Apart from the thrill of the rapids, the scenery of the gorge is fantastic and reminded me of a trip on the Colorado River in Canyonlands National Park some years ago. The company was in the process of filming a new commercial and offered us free access to the footage for a review. In comparison with the White Nile at Jinja – my only previous rafting experience – I found the Zambezi rapids a bit smaller and more manageable (the raft didn’t tip over), but also the water level of the Zambezi was not at its peak.

Rafting the Zambesi River – with Maano Adventures

Kasane and Chobe National Park – African Wildlife at its Best

From Livingstone I went by taxi to Kasane, Botsuana – only 75km away. There I spent the night at Elephant Trails, a guesthouse and backpackers specialized on Sarafis in the adjacent Chobe National Park – with own safari cars, guides, and competitive packages for backpacker budgets. I was able to book a Safari combo package for the next day consisting of a 5-hour game drive (early morning to noon), lunch, and an afternoon boat ride on the Chobe River.

Located in northern Botswana, Chobe National Park is renowned for its large elephant population — one of the highest concentrations in Africa. The park spans diverse ecosystems, including lush floodplains and dense woodlands, supporting a rich variety of wildlife such as lions, hippos, giraffes, and over 450 bird species. The Chobe river forms the northern boundary of the park and serves as a vital water source for wildlife, especially during the dry season. Boat safaris offer close-up views of elephants, crocodiles, and hippos along its banks.

Overall, the package was a fantastic deal, offering a premier wildlife experience at a very affordable rate. Personal highlights for me, apart from the sizeable elephant herds and close up view of crocodiles sunbathing on the river banks, were a lion family with cubs, and, most notably, a live chase experience of a lioness silently approaching an antelope – with us in the middle of it, as you can see in the footage.

Chobe National Park, Botsuana

In the end, the lioness was unfortunately (fortunately for the antelope) not successful. Part of the reason was, as our guide excellently explained to us, that the antilope was alerted by the cars watching her, thinking “why am I so special today, there must be a predator around”. Thus, while the experience was amazing, it also showcases how tourism makes it harder, especially for the sought after predators, to survive naturally in these parks.

From Kasane, I took the night bus to Gaborone on the same day at 8pm (after the safari). It traversed the ~930km down south via Francistown in ~12 hours and thus arrived in the morning. Unfortunately, it had a flat tire around 30km from Gaborone, so most of us switched to a smaller bus to make it to the city faster.

Gaborone – History of Botswana

Gaborone is the capital and largest city of Botswana, located in the southeastern part of the country near the border to South Africa. It became the capital in 1965, just before Botswana gained independence from British colonial rule in 1966. Botswana was formerly known as the British Protectorate of Bechuanaland, and upon independence, it transitioned peacefully into a democratic republic. The country has since been noted for its political stability, strong economic growth driven by diamond mining, and commitment to conservation and wildlife protection. Gaborone has grown rapidly and now serves as the administrative, economic, and cultural center of Botswana.

That being said, it is still the smallest and most peaceful capital city of any African country I have visited to far (including Namibia/Windhoek). Below are some impressions of a typical business day in Gaborone.

Gaborone on a Normal Business Day

Long before colonial involvement, the land was inhabited by various Tswana-speaking groups and the San people. These communities developed complex societies with chieftaincy systems, trade networks, and internal diplomacy.

A pivotal moment in Botswana’s pre-independence history occurred in the late 19th century, when three influential chiefs — Khama III of the Bangwato, Sebele I of the Bakwena, and Bathoen I of the Bangwaketse — played a crucial role in safeguarding their territory from colonial exploitation. In 1895, these chiefs undertook a bold journey to Britain to petition Queen Victoria against the incorporation of Bechuanaland into the British South Africa Company, which was controlled by imperialist Cecil Rhodes. Their mission was successful: Bechuanaland remained a British Protectorate under direct Crown rule, rather than becoming a settler colony. This helped preserve the autonomy of the local leadership and prevented the widespread dispossession of land experienced in Rhodesia and South Africa.

This extraordinary diplomatic act by the three chiefs is commemorated at the Three Dikgosi Monument – dikgosi meaning chief. Unveiled in 2005, the monument features towering bronze statues of Khama III, Sebele I, and Bathoen I, and stands as a symbol of unity, national pride, and visionary leadership.

Three Dikgosi (Chiefs) Monument, Gaborone

Throughout the first half of the 20th century, the British administered the Protectorate indirectly through the traditional chiefs (dikgosi), allowing local governance through customary law. This indirect rule preserved many Tswana political structures but also meant minimal economic investment in infrastructure, education, or industry.

After the formation of the Union of South Africa in 1910, there was consistent pressure from the South African government for Britain to transfer the Bechuanaland Protectorate, along with Basutoland (Lesotho) and Swaziland (Eswatini), into the Union. The chiefs and the people of Bechuanaland opposed this, fearing the racial segregation policies and land dispossession that would come under South African rule, especially as Apartheid became entrenched in the 1940s and 1950s. Their resistance, combined with Britain’s hesitation, prevented the transfer.

During this time, political consciousness began to grow within Bechuanaland. Although largely rural and underdeveloped, a small educated elite began to emerge, many of whom were inspired by nationalist movements across Africa. This led to the formation of political organizations that would later push for full self-rule.

A pivotal moment came with the controversial figure of Seretse Khama, the grandson of Chief Khama III. In the late 1940s, Seretse studied law in the UK and married a white Englishwoman, Ruth Williams, which sparked outrage both in South Africa and among some traditionalists in Bechuanaland. Under South African pressure, the British exiled Seretse in 1951. This move sparked widespread protest in the Protectorate and led to greater political mobilization.

Eventually allowed to return in 1956, Seretse renounced his claim to the chieftaincy and turned to politics. In 1962, he founded the Bechuanaland Democratic Party (BDP), which advocated for independence, development, and national unity. The BDP won the country’s first general elections in 1965 under a new constitution that laid the groundwork for self-government.

In 1966, Bechuanaland became the Republic of Botswana, with Seretse Khama as its first president. The transition was peaceful, and Botswana immediately embarked on a course of democratic governance, economic planning, and cautious diplomacy. Despite being one of the poorest countries in the world at independence — with just a few kilometers of paved roads and little in the way of formal infrastructure — Botswana’s stable leadership and effective institutions helped it rapidly develop into one of Africa’s most successful democracies.

The National Museum and Art Gallery in Gaborone showcases Botswana’s rich history, art, and heritage. It offers visitors an insight into the country’s cultural diversity, traditional crafts, archaeological finds, and the history of its struggle for independence. The museum also has an impressive collection of local art, reflecting the creative talents of Botswana’s artists, and often hosts temporary exhibitions, educational programs, and cultural events.

National Museum (Above) and Art Gallery (Below) in Gaborone

I would have liked to spend more Time in Botswana, e.g., to visit the Okavango Delta – the world’s largest inland delta, a UNESCO World Heritage site, renowned for its rich biodiversity and vibrant wildlife, including elephants, lions, and various bird species – but a job interview I wanted to take from Johannesburg and my overall schedule precluded further activities there. Transit to Johannesburg with the early morning Intercape Bus was very smooth – it takes around 7-8 hours for the ~400km trip with border crossing and stop in Pretoria, thus I arrived in the afternoon.

Johannesburg – Ghandi, Mandela, Soweto and Apartheid

Founded in 1886 following the discovery of one of the world’s richest gold reefs on the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg quickly transformed from a dusty mining camp into a booming metropolis. The city’s rapid growth was fueled by an influx of prospectors, miners, and entrepreneurs seeking fortune, which led to the development of infrastructure, housing, and industry. Johannesburg soon became the economic heart of South Africa, largely due to its position at the center of the country’s gold mining industry.

The city’s expansion also brought significant social and political challenges. Johannesburg grew with stark racial segregation, which was formalized and intensified with the institutionalization of Apartheid from 1948 onwards. Black South Africans were forced into segregated townships on the outskirts of the city, such as Soweto, while the white minority controlled the city’s wealth and governance. Because of this, Johannesburg became a hotbed of resistance against Apartheid, with Soweto emerging as a key center for political activism, most notably during the 1976 Soweto Uprising, which marked a turning point in the struggle against Apartheid.

After the end of Apartheid in 1994, Johannesburg underwent significant transformation, becoming a symbol of the new democratic South Africa. The city has worked to address its legacy of inequality through urban renewal projects and efforts to integrate formerly segregated communities. Today, Johannesburg is a bustling, multicultural metropolis that serves as South Africa’s financial and commercial capital, known for its vibrant arts scene, cultural diversity, and economic innovation, while still grappling with social challenges stemming from its complex past.

Nelson Mandela Square, located in the upscale suburb of Sandton in Johannesburg, is a vibrant public space and shopping destination named in honor of South Africa’s iconic leader. The square is famous for its impressive 6-meter-tall bronze statue of Mandela, symbolizing his legacy of freedom, unity, and reconciliation. Surrounding the square is the Sandton City Mall, one of the largest and most luxurious shopping centers in Africa, offering a wide range of international brands, fine dining, and entertainment options. Together, the square and mall serve as a popular gathering spot for both locals and tourists, blending cultural significance with modern urban lifestyle in Johannesburg’s bustling financial district.

Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City Mall, and Johannesburg Stock Exchange

From there I went to the Old Fort Prison, a historic site that once served as a notorious detention center during both colonial and Apartheid eras. Originally built in the late 19th century, the complex housed common criminals, political prisoners, and freedom fighters, including prominent figures such as Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela. The prison became infamous for its harsh conditions and brutal treatment of inmates, especially under Apartheid, when it was used to suppress anti-government activists. Today, it has been transformed into a museum and memorial that forms part of the Constitution Hill precinct, symbolizing South Africa’s journey from oppression to democracy.

Mahatma Gandhi’s time in South Africa, from 1893 to 1914, was a formative period that deeply shaped his philosophy of nonviolent resistance. Arriving as a young Indian lawyer, Gandhi initially came to represent an Indian merchant in a legal dispute, but he quickly became involved in the broader struggle against racial discrimination faced by the Indian community. Shocked by the blatant racism he encountered — including being thrown off a train for refusing to move from a “whites-only” compartment — Gandhi began to organize resistance against unjust laws, particularly those that restricted the rights of Indians to live, work, and travel freely.

During his two decades in South Africa, Gandhi developed and practiced Satyagraha, a method of nonviolent protest grounded in moral courage and civil disobedience. He led campaigns against oppressive laws, such as the requirement for Indians to carry special passes, and endured arrests and imprisonment, including time at Johannesburg’s Old Fort Prison. Gandhi’s activism in South Africa laid the intellectual and strategic foundation for the later independence movement in India. His experiences there not only shaped his worldview but also had a lasting impact on South Africa’s own liberation movements, influencing future leaders, such as Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr., in their pursuit of justice through peaceful means.

Mahatma Gandhi and his Satyagraha Movement – Exhibition in Old Fort Prison, Johannesburg

From the Old Fort Prison, I went by taxi with a local tour guide on a city tour, passing by old trains, memorials, and remnants of the cities mining history. Over the past ~100 years, more than 1.7 billion metric tons of material have been removed from the earth around Johannesburg for gold mining, and there is a labyrinth of abandoned mine tunnels under Johannesburg totaling ~140 km, with some shafts up to 4 km deep, posing ongoing challenges.

Downtown Johannesburg

Soweto, short for South Western Townships, is a vibrant and historically significant 200 square km area located southwest of Johannesburg. Known as the birthplace of the struggle against Apartheid, it was home to many key figures in the fight for freedom, including Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Soweto became a symbol of resistance during the 1976 Soweto Uprising, where students protested against the imposition of Afrikaans as the medium of instruction in schools, leading to violent clashes with the police. Today, Soweto is a dynamic, bustling community known for its rich culture, music, and strong sense of identity.

A Poorer Part of Soweto

From there, I went to the House of Nelson Mandela on Vilakazi Street - also in Soweto – the only street in the world to have been home to two Nobel Peace Prize laureates – Mandela and Tutu. While Mandela was imprisoned on Robben Island from 1964 to 1982, and later at Pollsmoor and Victor Verster prisons until his release in 1990, his wife Winnie and their children continued to inhabit the house, enduring frequent police harassment and surveillance throughout the Apartheid era. This went so far as that the police drove by and randomly shot at the house – there are bullet holes in the outer walls – and Winnie would gather their two children behind a central wall whenever police approached.

Mandela House on Vilakazi Street, Soweto

In lieu with the Mandela House, I also visited the Hector Pieterson Museum comemorating the Soweto Uprising of 1976 – a pivotal student-led protest against Apartheid’s education policies, where thousands of young people, particularly in Soweto, demanded the right to learn in their own language and resist the imposition of Afrikaans. The Hector Pieterson Museum in Soweto commemorates the life of Hector Pieterson, a 12-year-old boy who shot by the police and became an iconic symbol of the brutality faced by protesters during the uprising. The uprising sparked widespread protests across the country, and though the Apartheid government attempted to suppress the protests through violence, it unveiled the injustices of Apartheid, leading to greater international pressure on the regime.

Hundreds of people were killed in the uprising – it is widely believed more than 170. Thousands were injured, and many more were arrested. The museum features a walkable memorial of bricks for students killed in the uprising.

Last but not least, the Apartheid Museum is a must-see in Johannesburg. I spent three hours there and learned a lot.

Hector Pieterson Museum and Apartheid Museum, Johannesburg

From Johannesburg I then took a bus to Kimberley – a small but very special city around 400km southwest of Johannesburg. I had wanted to take the train again, but the only public train, the Shosholoza Meyl, is apparently no longer operational (I was not able to make contact/get tickets). I was told, it is because the overhead cables made of copper had been dismantled/stolen in some places, particularly during COVID-related shutdowns. It was the first reference I got to an African infrastructure not merely being ill-maintained, but destroyed by citizens to make a living.

So I again went by bus, which took around 8 hours for the ~500km. I was, once again, the only white person on the bus, but in this country there was a strange feeling about it. It also occurred, that while we were stopping at a station, I, being seated relatively in the front of the bus, left my power bank on my seat and found it missing upon my return. I spoke to the driver who told me that somebody from inside must have taken it in passing, as no outsider had entered. I thought that was a very strange situation to remain silent about, so I addressed the bus once everyone was seated again, telling them that I had come as a tourist from Germany, and my power bank was dear to me. I collected some pittyful looks, and sat down again. Very shortly afterwards, the conductor, seated in the first row opposite the driver got up, also adressing the bus with some mockery of my speech, and gave me back my powerbank. I suppose, he had gone through the bus and collected it after everyone was out, but ostensibly he had seen no need to return it to me right away or tell the driver. Overall, it was a weird situation, and I was happy to get off that bus in Kimberley.

Kimberley – Diamond Rush and Cecil Rhodes

Kimberley, located in the Northern Cape province of South Africa, is best known as the site of one of the world’s most famous diamond rushes. In the late 19th century, the discovery of diamonds near Colesberg Kopje transformed the area into a booming mining town almost overnight. The Big Hole, an enormous hand-dug excavation, remains the city’s most iconic landmark and a symbol of the diamond era. The British businessmen Cecil Rhodes and Barney Barnato made their fortunes in Kimberley, and Rhodes also established the De Beers diamond company in the early days of the mining town. Kimberley quickly became a hub of wealth, industry, and innovation, even being the first city in the Southern Hemisphere to install electric streetlights in 1882.

In 1866, Erasmus Jacobs found a small brilliant pebble on the banks of the Orange River, on the farm De Kalk leased from local Griquas, near Hopetown, which was his father’s farm. He showed the pebble to his father, who then sold it. The pebble was purchased from Jacobs’ father by Schalk van Niekerk, who later sold it on again. It proved to be a 21.25-carat (4.3 g) diamond, and became known as the Eureka. Three years later, in 1869, an 83.5-carat (16.7 g) diamond, which became known as the Star of South Africa, was found nearby. This diamond was sold by van Niekerk for £11,200, and later resold in the London market for £25,000.

Henry Richard Giddy recounted how Esau Damoense (or Damon), the cook for prospector Fleetwood Rawstorne’s “Red Cap Party”, found diamonds in 1871 on Colesberg Kopje after he was sent there to dig as punishment. Rawstorne took the news to the nearby diggings of the De Beer brothers, his arrival there sparking off the famous “New Rush”, which, as the historian Brian Roberts puts it, was practically a stampede. Within a month, 900 claims were cut into the hillock, which were worked frenetically by two to three thousand men.

As miners arrived in their thousands, the hill disappeared and subsequently became known as the Big Hole or, more formally, Kimberley Mine. From mid-July 1871 to 1914, 50,000 miners dug the hole with picks and shovels, yielding 2,722kg of diamonds. The Big Hole has a surface of 17 hectares (42 acres) and is 463m wide. It was excavated to a depth of 240 m but then partially infilled with debris reducing its depth to about 215m. Since then, it has accumulated water to a depth of 40m, leaving 175m visible. Beneath the surface, the Kimberley Mine underneath the Big Hole was mined to a depth of 1097m. A popular local myth claims that it is the largest hand-dug hole on the world, but Jagersfontein Mine appears to hold that record.

Big Hole / Kimberley Mine, Kimberley

It was also surprising for me to learn, that the Big Hole in Kimberley is basically an excavated volcano. Kimberlite pipes, such as the one in Kimberley, are deep, cylindrical geological formations formed by volcanic eruptions that bring material from deep within the Earth’s mantle to the surface. These eruptions, which occurred millions of years ago, forcefully expel kimberlite — a type of volcanic rock — along with various minerals, including diamonds. Diamonds crystallize under intense heat and pressure, typically around 140 to 190 kilometers below Earth’s surface, and are then transported to the surface through these kimberlite eruptions.

Cecil Rhodes, one of the most influential figures in British colonial history, made his fortune in Kimberley. Arriving in the city in the 1871, the 18-year old Cecil Rhodes quickly became a key player in the burgeoning diamond trade. In 1888, Rhodes (De Beers) negotiated a deal to buy out Barnato’s company and laid the foundation for the De Beers monopoly that would dominate global diamond markets for more than a century.

Rhodes’s monopoly on the diamond industry made him extraordinarily wealthy, and he used this wealth to pursue an aggressive expansionist agenda in southern Africa, eventually founding the colony of Rhodesia (modern-day Zimbabwe and Zambia) in his name. His approach to business was both ruthless and visionary, with his relentless drive for control of the diamond trade leading to vast consolidation of mining operations and the shaping of the global diamond market.

Rhodes’s wealth and influence allowed him to become a prominent political figure in both Britain and South Africa. He served as the Prime Minister of the Cape Colony from 1890 to 1896 and was a fervent advocate for British imperialism. His vision of a British-controlled African empire stretched from the Cape to Cairo, leading him to push for the colonization and economic exploitation of vast areas of Africa.

Cecil John Rhodes and Edward Sambourne's Rhodes Colossus (Punch, 1892)

Rhodes’s legacy is complex and controversial; while he was a major proponent of Western development and infrastructure in southern Africa, his actions were also deeply tied to the subjugation and dispossession of indigenous African peoples. His legacy, especially in light of his beliefs in white supremacy and his role in the exploitation of Africa, remains a subject of intense debate and reflection in South Africa and beyond.

From Kimberley, after seeing the Big Hole, which can be done in one day, I wanted to take the bus to Cape Town the next day. However, it turns out all busses start in Johannesburg, pass through Kimberley in the afternoon, and reach Cape Town in the late afternoon/evening of the following day. The alternative, as Kimberley has a small airport, is to fly to Cape Town, boarding a plane at 9am which reaches Cape Town at 10am. I was a bit tired of my trip and the bus experience to Kimberley, thus this was a very welcome option to save two days on the road for lovely Western Cape. The flight itself was also a scenic transition from the rather dry Northern Cape region to the lush green Western Cape – with different methods of farming in the two regions clearly distinguishable from above.

Western Cape – Sublime Landscapes, Wine Farms, Excursions and Hikes

The Western Cape has a rich and complex history shaped by indigenous cultures, colonialism, and political change. Long before European arrival, it was inhabited by the Khoikhoi and San peoples, who lived off the land and sea. In 1652, the Dutch established a refreshment station at what is now Cape Town under Jan van Riebeeck, marking the beginning of European colonization. The region later became a crucial part of the Dutch East India Company’s trade route. In 1806, the British took control of the Cape Colony, leading to significant changes in land ownership and social structures, especially with the introduction of slavery, which persisted until 1834. Over the years, the Western Cape played a key role in the development of South Africa, from the struggles during Apartheid to the region’s role in the country’s eventual transition to democracy in 1994.

From the airport, I went straight to Stellenbosch, where my (former) host family during my research visit in Spring 2023 had invited me to stay with them again during my time in Western Cape. The elderly couple, lovingly called papa Jurie and mama Maggie, have been accomodating students at various levels for many years, and, apart from me, were currently hosting Khaled, a postdoc in statistics from Iran, and Rajiv, a master student in theology from Sri Lanka. Thus, I was in good company right away, and, as during my stay in early 2023, we did excursions together like a real family. But I also took this time to just relax and catch-up with a few people at the university.

My Host Family in Stellenbosch – 2023 (LHS) and 2025 (RHS)

Stellenbosch, one of South Africa’s oldest towns, is nestled in the heart of the Western Cape’s winelands and holds a prominent place in the country’s colonial and agricultural history. Founded in 1679 by the Dutch Governor Simon van der Stel, the town quickly became a hub for farming and settlement due to its fertile soil and mild climate. In the late 17th century, French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution arrived in the Cape and brought with them advanced viticulture knowledge, which greatly influenced the development of South Africa’s wine industry. Many of these settlers established farms in and around Stellenbosch, laying the foundations for what would become one of the most renowned wine-producing regions in the Southern Hemisphere. Today, Stellenbosch is celebrated not only for its world-class wines but also for its preserved Cape Dutch architecture, prestigious university, and deep cultural heritage that reflects centuries of European and African interaction.

Stellenbosch and Surrounding Area (2023 and 2025)

One of the go-to places for a relaxing sunday afternoon in Stellenbosch is Lanzerac Wine Estate. Located just outside the historic town it is one of South Africa’s most iconic and storied wine farms, with a history dating back to 1692. The estate has played a significant role in the development of South African wine, most notably as the birthplace of the first bottled Pinotage — a uniquely South African varietal — in 1961. While the estate is beautiful, the slave bell in the third picture is a solemn reminder of the darker parts of Western Cape history.

Lanzerac Wine Estate, Stellenbosch (2025)

From Stellenbosch it takes about 45 minutes by car to get to Cape Town. While the city offers many serene corners, the Victoria and Alfred (V&A) Waterfront is a particularly vibrant cultural and commercial hub that seamlessly blends history with modern development, set against the stunning backdrop of Table Mountain. Named after Queen Victoria and her son Prince Alfred, who began construction of the original breakwater in 1860, the waterfront played a key role in the city’s maritime history as a bustling port. Over time, the area was transformed from a working harbor into one of South Africa’s most visited attractions, preserving historic buildings and docklands while introducing luxury hotels, world-class shopping, fine dining, and entertainment – in stark contrast to its earlier milieu of sailors and prostitutes.

Victoria and Alfred (V&A) Waterfront, Cape Town (2023 and 2025)

I also did not miss the opportunity to hike Table Mountain again. Starting in the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, with its notorious tree canopy walkway, I proceeded up Skeleton Gorge followed by Smuts Track to Maclear’s Beacon (the highest point), and then crossed the top (table) of the mountain until the cable car station. It is a wonderful hike that takes around 5 hours. However, on many days, the sight on top of the mountain is severely limited by the “Table Cloth” – clouds formed by warm winds from the sea condensating on top of it. This time, my sight near the cable car was severly limited, thus I supplemented my documentation with some pictures/footage from an earlier hike in 2023.

Hiking Table Mountain - from Kirstenbosch to the Cable Car Station (2025)

As the iconic landmark of Cape Town, Table Mountain stands 1,085 meters above sea level, its flat-topped summit offering sweeping panoramic views of the city, the Atlantic Ocean, and the surrounding Cape Peninsula. Geologically, Table Mountain is over 600 million years old, making it one of the oldest mountains on Earth. Its unique profile, coupled with its rich biodiversity, has earned it a spot as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature. The mountain is home to thousands of plant species, including the rare fynbos, as well as a variety of animal life.

Table Mountain View from Bloubergstrand & View on Cape Town from the Lower Cable Car Station (2023)

With my host family, during my two weeks stay, I also undertook two excursions to Hermanus and the West Coast National Park, respectively.

Hermanus, located about 120 kilometers southeast of Cape Town, is a charming coastal town renowned for its breathtaking scenery and world-class whale watching. Nestled between the cliffs of the Overberg region and the turquoise waters of Walker Bay, Hermanus has long been a popular retreat for nature lovers and adventure seekers. The town’s claim to fame is its position as one of the best whale watching destinations in the world, with Southern Right Whales migrating to its shores between June and December each year. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any.

Because Khaled and Rajiv had to be at university, Jurie and Maggie invited a young Russian couple from St. Petersburg to join our trip. The man, whose name I won’t mention, was doing a PhD. During the drive to Hermanus, we had great discussions about the war in Ukraine. He, himself close to the opposition and already blacklisted, offered remarkable insights into the workings of the Russian kleptocracy and why the war was necessary for it to persist.

Hermanus (2025)

The West Coast National Park, situated to the northwest of Cape Town, is a stunning natural reserve that showcases the raw beauty of South Africa’s coastline. Stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the inland wetlands of the Langebaan Lagoon, the park is renowned for its diverse ecosystems, including sandy beaches, salt marshes, and dense coastal fynbos. It is also a haven for birdwatchers, with over 250 species recorded, including migratory birds that flock to the park during the summer months. The park’s most famous attraction is its annual wildflower display, which paints the landscape in vibrant hues of orange, purple, and yellow as spring arrives – which was the main reason for our trip. It is also home to a variety of wild animals, such as zebras and oryx antelopes.

West Coast National Park (2025)

For more impressions of the stunning Western Cape region, I refer the avid reader to my Flickr Album with high-quality panoramic images taken during my 3-month research visit at Stellenbosch University in Spring 2023.

The End

After a relaxing and eventful two weeks in Western Cape together with my lovely host family, I left Cape Town on the 31st of August and arrived in Hamburg, Germany on the 1st of September. I had spent six weeks in Southern Africa, traveling more than 6000km from Zanzibar to Cape Town by public transport. It was an experience I will never forget, and a great feat I will likely never have the time to repeat in similar extent.

This post is therefore a memoir to myself, but also a tribute to many who have expressed interest in this journey. I hope it inspired you to similar adventures and ignited a spark of fascination for the African continent.

Last but not least, I am happy that, in the last week of August, while being in Stellenbosch, I finally received a job offer. A month later, I am completing this post from Washington DC – change is indeed materializing.

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Technical and Editorial Notes

High-quality images were captured using a Canon 600D with EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II and EF 70-200mm f4 L USM lenses – shot in RAW and edited in Adobe Lightroom Classic, which was also used for panorama stitches. Other pictures and all footage was captured in 1080p 30FPS HDR (Dolby Vision) using an iPhone 13 mini (except for South Africa footage from 2023 which was shot on an iPhone 8, also in 1080p). Short videos were produced using iMovie.

Wikipedia and ChatGPT were also used to fill in some place descriptions and historical context / information. Any other errors (let me know if you find any), are mine or due to information relayed by fellow travelers or local guides.